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As the plane descended onto Bole International Airport, I couldn't help but feel a shivery flu coming on, threatening to cast a shadow over my inaugural trip to this bucket list destination. Ethiopia, a land of rich history and vibrant culture, has recently made remarkable strides in its transport infrastructure. The airport, adorned with the proud symbols of its national carrier, Ethiopian Airlines, stood as a testament to this development.

Surprisingly, I found that I blended seamlessly into the local populace. It was almost flattering that most of the people I encountered insisted on addressing me in Amharic, the national tongue. Before delving into my Ethiopian adventure, I learned a valuable tip: change your currency to the domestic Birr. While the American Dollar is widely accepted, tourists quickly discover that transactions can become problematic when using foreign currency. During my arrival, one taxi driver, sensing my newcomer status, insisted on payment in dollars at a greatly inflated rate. From my experience, a transfer from the airport to most hotels within the capital, Addis Ababa, should cost no more than the equivalent of Sh2,000 in Birr. A word of caution: avoid tempting offers from black market money changers, as it could lead to legal trouble.

My primary reason for being in Ethiopia was a tourism conference, and it took place in the largest hotel in Africa, the Ethiopian Skylight Hotel. Situated strategically, just a five-minute walk from Bole International Airport, this behemoth boasts, a staggering 1024 rooms. This massive complex not only houses extensive meeting and event facilities accommodating up to 5,000 guests but also features 19 food and beverage outlets, including authentic Ethiopian, Italian, Arabian, and Asian restaurants, coffee houses, bars, recreational facilities, and spots for sips of hand-crafted cocktails.

Discovering the Nightlife and Medical Adventures

As my second night unfolded in the land of origins, I had already familiarised myself with the capital's attractions. I even ventured out for a night in a swanky bar, although the name now escapes me, before my body succumbed to illness, and I had to seek medical attention. The hospital that ran a check on me sported an American name, a curious feature I noticed many Ethiopian businesses had adopted.

After the medical check, we headed to a restaurant that promised a taste of home. Union Cocktail Bar, located near Mesqel Square, offered a stunning view of Addis Ababa's bus station. Situated within the compound housing the Addis Ababa Museum, this popular establishment was frequented by diplomats and expats from various African nations. The journey to the restaurant, however, felt a bit sketchy due to an unfinished road, but once inside, it exuded charm. Portraits of African greats and founding fathers adorned the walls. While not many places cater to Kenyan delicacies, Union provided staples like ugali and nyama choma. I savoured the tastiest buttered Nile perch, which lifted my spirits, much like my visit to a local tannery, where I indulged in my appreciation for leather goods. Unlike Kenya, where industrial zones are designated, most Ethiopian buildings serve mixed purposes, accommodating both industry and residences. What started as a grey day turned bright, and all my medical tests came back negative. Needless to say, the good news worked like a charm, and by evening, I was back to my usual self, fortified by a vitamin boost.

Indulging in Sweet Treats at Koba Patisserie and Bakery

 While driving around, it was impossible to ignore the Roman-style roadworks that line the city's streets. One such road led me to a coffee shop and bakery that has captured the hearts of locals. Koba, located in Addis Ababa, is undoubtedly the city's coolest hangout, attracting a young and lively crowd. Beyond serving full meals from a comprehensive menu, Koba was a confluence of pastry expertise drawn from Australia, India, Portugal, and the UK. The name "Koba" was derived from Café Romina, a popular Ethiopian restaurant chain established in 1973. My illness had abated by this point, and I thoroughly enjoyed my hazelnut pastry. While the prices may be considered steep by some, the experience was well worth it.

Embracing the Tranquility of Bishoftu

My transfer from Entoto to Bishoftu was uneventful, and I managed to purchase a local SIM card with the help of my driver. This proved essential, as the rains had disrupted power supply and, consequently, internet connectivity in my next destination. My arrival in Bishoftu, just before dusk, offered a glimpse of the lake from which the town derived its name. Bishoftu, located 40 km from Addis Ababa, on the western edge of the Rift Valley, was once known as Debre Zeyit but officially adopted the Oromo name, Bishoftu, in the late 1990s. The town, also the primary airbase of the Ethiopian Air Force, is renowned for its crater lakes and boutique resorts, making it a top choice for leisure travellers near Addis Ababa. One of seven lakes, Bishoftu lived up to its name, which translates to "sweetness" or "baked." Encircled by steep crater rims, the closed-system lake provided picturesque views. I had the pleasure of staying at the 150-room Kuriftu Resort and Spa, one of the finest lodging facilities in Ethiopia. Besides spa and massage services,  Kuriftu offers a water park, yachting, and other water-based activities. Nothing beats a peaceful row on the lake, in the company of water birds. In just 45 minutes, I had traversed the entire breadth of the lake down to the Presbyterian mission, whose Kesha-like activity added a touch of life to the tranquil night.

A Memorable Departure

As I prepared to depart, I had a chance to explore the bustling Bole Airport. The 'Habesha Kemis/Kemise' or the 'dress of the Habesha' is a great gift but without time to forage the market, the best souvenir I found was coffee, for which Ethiopia is renowned. While the airport boasts several lounges and duty-free shopping outlets, most of them accept only dollars or euros. Fortunately, after some searching, I discovered one store that accepted the remainder of  my local currency. Here, I purchased Ethiopian wine of impressive quality.

Visiting Africa's political capital without exploring the Addis Museum and the African Union Headquarters seemed incomplete, so I have marked a return visit as a must-do. As the land of origins looks forward to more inter-African tourism, I've learned that the Kuriftu hospitality brand is developing a 54-room African village-inspired resort in the highest point of Addis Ababa. This strategic location offers sweeping, uncompromised views of the country. Each of the 54 suites will be assigned to an African country, with the rooms authentically designed. The project has received an endorsement from the AU and aims to bring together all the ambassadors based in Ethiopia to authenticate each suite. The resort will highlight various African cultural cuisines through rotating specialised chefs quarterly, complemented by art, dance, drinks, and music from the featured country for an authentic experience. Additionally, the resort will feature an underground swimming pool, a spa, a restaurant, and a 5,000-capacity conference facility. This dream, currently at 80 per cent completion, is scheduled for a soft launch on New Year's, according to Yonaiel Tadiwos Belete, a Director at Kuriftu.